|
Dave Bush |
About
Timekeeping
Common
terms used in watch descriptions
Movement
- the timekeeping mechanism
of the watch, which is placed into the watch case for protection.
Most American movements were made in one of five standard sizes, 18,
16,
and 12 were generally used in men's watches, and 6 and 0 sizes were
used
in ladies watches. It is possible to have two cases that look
like
they are the same size, and find that the movements inside them are
different
sizes. Generally, as time has passed, pocket watches have gotten
smaller.
Sizes - I will list the movement
size and the case size, the case size will be the outer diameter of the
main round part of the watch. As watches have gotten smaller over
the years, some early pieces that were thought of as ladies sizes when
new, now could be considered small men's, and some ladies will think
that
they are too large for a woman to wear.
Open face watch - with this watch
you can see the face, or dial without opening it up
Hunting case watch - these watches
have a metal cover over the dial and crystal to protect it, so that the
front of the watch often looks just like the back. To open it up
to check the time, press the winding crown down, and the cover will
spring
up. When closing, it is very important that you also again press
down the winding crown, then push shut the cover and release the crown
- it is possible to 'snap' shut the cover, but this will wear away the
catch that holds it closed, and it will then no longer stay shut.
Lever setting - this is a method
of setting the hands, there is a little lever at the edge of the dial
that
is pulled out away from the dial, then when the winding crown is turned
the hands can be adjusted. Slide it back in and then the watch
can
be wound up.
Pendant setting - the most common
way of adjusting the hands, pull the winding crown out, and rotate it
and
the hands can be set, push it back down when finished
Keywind/ key set - the watch is
wound and set using a key
Crystal - the glass that covers
the dial or face of the watch, sometimes these are plastic, but most of
the watches here will have the old glass
Bow - the round hoop over the
winding
crown used to hang the watch on a chain
The earliest watches used a key for winding and for setting the hands - many years later mechanical systems were invented to eliminate the need for the key. Most keywind watches are older than most stemwind watches, and as a rule they show more signs of use and age than the newer stem winders. In the era when keywind watches were made watches were valuable and prized possessions, and often have seen a lot of use - I think that many years ago it was unusual to buy something and then hardly use it as people commonly do today. As a result I find the overall condition of keywind watches today is not generally as good as the condition of newer stemwind watches, and also the stemwind watches are typically much more mechanically advanced than the old keywinds. This means when you are looking at keywind watches you generally must allow for a little lower standard of condition in your evaluations - these pieces will have more signs of use and will act more like antiques in their timekeeping and general running condition - think of automobiles Circa 1920 compared to automobiles Circa 1960.
Please notice also that most all American made keywinds will need the key set on the little square post in the center of the hands to move the hands and change the time. This will require the front be opened on an open faced watch, and on a hunters cased watch the bezel holding the crystal will need to be snapped open and closed. This opening of the watch will generally require the use of a small opener or knife and care must be taken to avoid damaging the watch.
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